The number of chemicals related to pool chemistry overwhelms many pool owners.
The most important thing to remember is this: Properly balanced pool water will not have a strong odor, and should both look clear and blue, and feel comfortable to swim in. Itchy skin, red eyes, cloudy water and water discolouration all indicate something has gone amiss. Many veteran pool owners only test their water once per month, and otherwise know the balance of the water just by look, feel and smell. Our recommendation is to have a water test done shortly after opening your pool in the spring and once per month throughout the season, or any other time you are not sure of the water condition.
Before we dive into the chemistry lesson, here are a few helpful reminders to keep your pool water crystal clear all summer long:
Get into a routine. Find a time during the week (like Sunday evening) you’re most likely going to be home on a regular basis to do your weekly maintenance.
Stay ahead of the game. It is important to recognize potential problems and to treat them early. For instance, hot weather depletes chlorine and allows for algae growth. When the weather is exceptionally sunny and hot, it makes sense to increase the dosage of chlorine even when the water appears to be clear.
Chemicals provide balance. People sometimes misunderstand that the primary purpose of adding chemicals to pool water is to create healthy, balanced and safe water.
Outside Factors – Weather affects water balance and uses up your chlorine. Rain, algae, and dust can eat up your chlorine as well as cause pH change. Bathers and some environmental chemicals, such as lawn and garden fertilizers, have the same effect.
The Saturation Index
When we talk about water balance, we are measuring the relationship between different factors that are key in deciding the overall healthiness of your pool water. The Saturation Index is a mathematical equation that measures the pH, temperature, calcium hardness and total alkalinity of water in order to predict whether the water is scale forming, neutral or corrosive. All of these factors have a recommended range for pool usage, and it is only when all of these factors are within their prescribed ranges that true water balance can be achieved.
Total Alkalinity – TA is the total amount of alkaline material (carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides) present in the water. TA is a buffer for pH, meaning that it controls the pH’s ability to change. TA and pH have a positive relationship with one another. If the total alkalinity is high, then the pH will most likely be high. Conversely, if the total alkalinity is low the pH may drop below the ideal range or fluctuate excessively. The acceptable range for TA in vinyl, painted, or fiberglass pools is 80-120 ppm.
Calcium Hardness – CH refers to the amount of calcium dissolved in the water. Water that is low in calcium can cause corrosion of pool equipment and surfaces. Water high in calcium has a tendency to form scale; thus, damage to pipes, filtration and heating systems and pool surfaces can result. Hard water also depletes chemical effectiveness. The ideal range for CH in vinyl, painted and fiberglass pools is 100-200 ppm. You should always use a scale preventative chemical in your pool on a regular basis.
Temperature – Temperature controls the solubility of minerals in the water.
Total Dissolved Solids – TDS for short; it is the measure of dissolved materials in water. Pools with high TDS become more susceptible to cloudiness, and can develop a foul odour. Sanitizer effectiveness can be greatly impeded. Levels should not increase above 2000 ppm.
pH – pH is the measure of the water’s acidity or basicity (alkalinity). The pH scale measures from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. The numbers on the scale are symbolic representations for an exponential scale (i.e., a pH of 7.2 is 10 times more acidic than 7.4, 100 times more acidic than 7.6, etc.). Low pH causes faster chlorine loss, wrinkling of liners, eye irritation, and chloramine formation (chloramines are byproducts of chlorine after organic waste is consumed, causing pungent smell and skin irritation). Water with high pH is cloudy, scale forming and inhibits chlorine effectiveness. The acceptable range for pH in pools is 7.2-7.6. Use pH Up to raise pH, and pH Down to lower it. Always add pH balancing chemicals in small doses over several days.
Other Factors Important in Chemical Balance
Stabilizer (CYA) – Also known as cyanuric acid, stabilizer acts like sunscreen for chlorine. When maintained around 40 ppm, stabilizer helps reduce chlorine loss by virtue of blocking out the sun’s UV rays. CYA remains in pool water unless a significant amount of water is lost, or a drain and refill occurs. While acceptable amounts of this product aid in the sustenance of chlorine, high levels inhibit chlorine effectiveness. Pools using bromine do not require stabilizer.
Sanitizer – The two most popular forms of pool sanitizer are chlorine and bromine. Most often, proper sanitization is the result of using concentrated pucks alongside a regular shocking (also called ‘superchlorination’) regiment. During hot summer months, one can expect to shock pool water one or two times per week. Heavy usage also dictates how much sanitizer demand your pool will have. One common question is “when is the best time to shock my pool?” The answer simply: at night. On a practical level, you should not use your pool when concentrations of chlorine are high, so it makes sense to shock the pool when no one will be using it. Moreover, the sun’s UV rays burn chlorine. Therefore, if you shock your pool during the day, you will be wasting chemical.
There are two measurements of chlorine that affect water balance. Free chlorine is the amount of available, unused chlorine present in the water. Combined chlorine refers to the amount of chlorine still present in the water that has combined with organic waste to become inactive. Shocking the water rejuvenates combined chlorine back into usable chlorine. Combined chlorine contains copious amounts of chloramines, and is what causes that distinct “pool smell.” Pool water with a strong odour often means that the pool is improperly sanitized, and that it needs to be shocked. Bromine contains similar byproducts called bromamines, but their odour is less pungent. Bromine has proven to be a healthy alternative to chlorine for those who suffer from sensitive skin.
Algaecide – Algae comes in different textures and colours, with green algae being the most prevalent. It is important to add an initial dosage of algaecide as part of a pool opening treatment, and to add regular weekly maintenance dosages thereafter. Algaecides serve the main purpose of preparing chlorine to battle live algae more effectively. If algae is present in pool water, it is recommended to have a water test done and to add more concentrated forms of algaecide.
Metals – Certain metals have the ability to permanently damage pool surfaces through staining. The preferred level for metals in pool water is 0 ppm (none). Metals commonly found in water are iron and copper and to a lesser extent manganese. Though not a common problem, simple tests can check for their presence. Metals present in pool water can cause water discolouration and surface staining. Fiberglass pools are slightly more susceptible to staining from metals, so it is important to keep the pH balanced on the lower end of the ideal range, and add a stain & scale inhibitor regularly.
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